Toss aside any thoughts that Tel Aviv might be a provincial Middle Eastern city.
Israel’s second largest city pulses with energy, and the blend of cultures give Tel Aviv a cool vibe that needs no translation. Cafés, restaurants and markets are crowded, and the seaside city boasts fascinating neighborhoods, galleries, theaters and museums (in case you’re looking for a bit of culture). You can see why it’s the city of choice for late-night club hopping and suicide bombers.
Finding your bearings is easy. Use the water. If the Mediterranean is to your left, you’re walking north; to your right, you’re heading south; behind you, you’re moving east; and if it’s in front of you, you’re on the beach.
The paths skirting along the beach are busy with joggers, walkers, bicyclists and in-line skaters. Israel is very fit. Every morning groups of men and women practice yoga or Tai Chai on the sand. Kayakers paddle along the calm waters of the shoreline. Jewish hipsters stand nearby smoking cheap cigarettes.
Also worth checking out is the Carmel Market, the city’s largest outdoor market, teeming with fresh fruit and vegetables – how about pomegranates from Galilee or figs from the Golan Heights? Stalls and shops selling spices, herbs, meat, bread and sundries crowd the market’s narrow streets. The busiest times are Thursday afternoons and Fridays before sunset, when Jewish shoppers are preparing for the Sabbath.
Morning runs along the beach led me south to Jaffa, once the port for Jerusalem, about 40 miles east. The ancient hillside city offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean and Tel Aviv. I wandered through the restored old section, browsing artisan galleries, museums and shops. Beyond the old city, I ducked into an expansive
flea market and devoured the signature dish – eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce and served in a frying pan – at Dr. 
Shakshuka’s. I don’t know if he was a real doctor.
The holy and historic sites beckoned, of course, and I eventually made my way to the Sea of Galilee, Masada, the Dead Sea and Old Jerusalem, but leaving seductive Tel Aviv was difficult.
This is the second installment of a three part package on Israel.
Read part III tomorrow.
Greg Tasker often stayed out very late while working on these stories, though it took him a while to sober up before he could start writing.
The main attraction of Luxor holidays must be the wonderful ancient tombs.
